The Traditional Martini

Make a Classic Cocktail the Old Fashioned Way

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Martini, Straight Up - Public Domain
Martini, Straight Up - Public Domain
Purists would argue that the myriad of drinks served today in a cocktail glass and labeled as Martinis are imposters. But what is the real thing?

For modern drinkers, the classic V-shaped, stemmed cocktail glass has become indelibly associated with the Martini. Any cocktail poured into one is magically transformed into some variety of Martini, and it seems to be forgotten that a Martini can also be served on the rocks as a highball.

The exact origins of the Martini are lost somewhere in the mists of time, although the cocktail is one of the classic drinks of the 20th century. One thing, though, is certain. The drink we know as a Martini, or at least something resembling the modern version, have been around almost as long as cocktails themselves.

The Martinez

It’s possible that the great-granddaddy of the modern Martini was the Martinez. The recipe appeared in print in Jerry Thomas’ The Bartenders Guide in 1887. The original recipe called for one pony of Old Tom Gin (a sweetened gin), one wineglass of Italian vermouth (sweet vermouth), 2 dashes maraschino liqueur, and 1 dash Bokers Bitters. This cocktail would obviously be quite a bit sweeter than the modern dry Martini.

The Evolution of the Martini

The drink and the name seem to have evolved at different paces. 1888 marks the first year that the name Martini appeared, when it was mentioned in the New and Improved Illustrated Bartending Manual. In 1896, a similar drink was listed in Stewart’s Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them. Called a Marquerite by Stewart, the recipe called for “1 dash orange bitters, 2/3 Plymouth Gin, and 1/3 French Vermouth.”

But according to MartiniArt.com, by 1911 things came together, in the guise of the head bartender at the Knickerbocker Hotel in New York, a gentleman named Martini di Arma di Taggia. He mixed one part London Gin with one part Nolly Prat Vermouth, added a dash of orange bitters, chilled it on ice and strained it into a chilled glass. A cultural icon was born.

The Traditional Martini

The traditional Martini bears only a slight resemblance to either today’s Dry Martini, or to the legion of cocktails that have recently been dubbed “-tinis” of some sort. Martinis were popular during Prohibition, since gin didn’t require aging, making it readily available in speakeasies. At that time, Martinis were made with equal parts of gin and dry vermouth. A variation known as the Sweet Martini utilized sweet vermouth instead of dry, and there was the Perfect Martini, made with equal parts of sweet and dry vermouth.

The Modern Martini

Vermouth gradually became a much lesser ingredient in the Martini. By the 1950’s, the accepted ratio was four or five parts gin to one part vermouth. Through the years, the vermouth has continued to dwindle, and today, a 6:1 or 8:1 ratio seems to be the norm. The “in and out” is also popular – the vermouth is poured into a cocktail glass and swirled around, then the excess poured out, before adding the chilled gin. The Vodkatini, or Vodka Martini, substitutes vodka for gin, and is one of the most popular versions of the Martini today.

The Best Martini Bartender

A bit of bartender lore says that there are only three questions that a bartender must ask when the customer orders a martini.

  1. Vodka or gin?
  2. Straight up or on the rocks?
  3. Olive or twist?

Oliver Twist? Must be a dickens of a drink!

Angie Rayfield - Angie is a self-taught beer aficionado, who cheerfully confesses, "I didn't always love beer. In fact, I hated it. I only learned to drink ...

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Comments

Feb 10, 2010 10:38 PM
Guest :
I think it's a terrific article! Would love to learn even more of the history. Also, it's always great to hear stories of martinis in history and culture. My favorite is in The Thin Man when Nora joins Nick at the bar:
Bartender: What'll you have?
Nora: What's he having?
Bartender: Martini
Nora to Nick: How many have you had?
Nick: Five.
Nora to Bartender: Bring me five martinis and line them up right here on the bar in front of me.

p.s. There is really no controversy. A martini is gin and vermouth. End of statement. Drinks made with vodka have other names (e.g. "Vesper"). A drink made with vodka can never be a martini, any more than a ring made of silver can be called a baseball. They are, always were, and always will be different things. Don't let the poseurs get away with their lack of civility and upbringing. Help put an end to this egregious breach of culture and language.

Love,

Johnny Devoid
Feb 10, 2010 10:42 PM
Guest :
P.S. No real bartender would EVER ask "vodka or gin?" or "olive or twist" upon getting an order for a martini. A real bartender knows that a "martini" is ALWAYS gin, and ALWAYS an olive. Other drinks with other options have other names.

The only appropriate question for a bartender to ask when a customer orders a martini is "Dry, extra dry, or `just open a bottle of vermouth on the other side of the room dry'?"

Love,
Johnny Devoid
The Ultimate Arbiter of Civility and Cool
Feb 11, 2010 5:01 AM
Angie Rayfield :
Ah, but regardless of the bartender's views on the subject, he/she also knows that the customer is always right. Even when the customer's wrong, the customer is right.

That said, the overwhelming majority of bartenders I talk to agree that a dry gin martini is the only 'real' thing. A few will bend enough to include vodka. And all agree that putting a drink in a cocktail glass does not make it a martini, no matter what the name on the menu may be.
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